HO CHI MINH CITY (2 March 2010) — The men and women
who waded into the Big Muddy of the Vietnam War, pen in hand, cameras on the
shoulder, lenses on the up and up, will gather in Saigon this April, perhaps
for the last time, to observe the 35th anniversary of the conflict’s conclusion
and bid adieu to a place that defined a generation of journalists.
The dozens of self-styled Old Hacks congregating at the
Caravelle Hotel for this last hurrah include a who’s who of the wartime press
corps:
Peter Arnett, Associated Press (AP), Pulitzer Prize 1965, International
Reporting
Horst Faas, AP, Pulitzer Prize 1965 – Photography; Pulitzer Prize 1972 – Spot
News Photography
Neal Ulevich, AP, Pulitzer Prize 1977 – Spot News Photography
Barry Hillenbrand,Time
Tim Page, Time
Don North, ABC,
Ken Wagner, CBS
Jim Laurie, NBC
Carl Robinson, AP
Dirck Halstead, UPI, Time
Russell Burrows, son of Larry Burrows, one of the 20th Century’s legendary war
photographers
In Saigon, the group will mount a photography exhibit and hold a memorial
dinner at the Caravelle Hotel, where CBS and NBC based its bureaus during the
war and where, on a rooftop bar, many wartime journalists retreated at the end
of the day.
“We thought our last reunion five years ago was the last hurrah,” said Carl
Robinson, an AP correspondent in Saigon from
1968 to 1975, who is organizing the reunion. “But when Hubert Van Es [who took
the photo of the precariously balanced helicopter on a downtown penthouse
elevator shaft during the U.S.
evacuation of Saigon] died last spring, our
virtual reunion in an email list of some 300 inspired a desire for one more
look at this city.”
Today, Ho Chi Minh City is positioned to grow
faster than any other city in the developing world except for Hanoi, according to a PricewaterhouseCoopers
report issued in November. The city’s dynamic appeal will be on full throttle
during the country’s annual celebration of war’s end. But for the Old Hacks,
the appeal is far more about yesterday than today.
“Nostalgia is a huge driver for lots of our guests,” said John Gardner, general
manager of the Caravelle. “I see them all the time up here on the rooftop
terrace, standing on the edge of a city they once knew so well, a drink in
hand, lost to more than a few memories.”
Saigon, a still commonly used and not politically inappropriate name for Ho Chi Minh City’s first district, has done a fair job of
preserving a city once known as the Pearl
of the Orient. The GiaLongPalace,
from which the former president of South Vietnam,
Ngo Dinh Diem, fled during a 1963 coup d’etat is now the Museum of Ho Chi Minh City.
The EdenBuilding,
where the AP once located its Saigon bureau,
is still home to the Girval Café where Graham Greene’s Phuong took her
“elevenses” in The Quiet American. The Caravelle Hotel celebrated its 50-year
history with publication of a book last year: Caravelle – Saigon:
A History.
But there have been changes, and the Old Hacks are likely to be more surprised
by one transformation than any other: Where the American military once held a
daily briefing derisively known as the Five O’Clock Follies, Louis Vuitton now
sells luxury leather goods and fashion.
ABOUT THE CARAVELLE
Opened in 1959, the Caravelle won enduring fame during the American War (known
as the Vietnam War in the West) as the city’s most upscale hotel and a perch
from which to watch the war erupt on the city’s fringe. In 1998, the original
10-story building on Lam Son
Square was completely refurbished and complemented
by a 24-story tower. Today, the 335-room hotel reigns as Saigon’s
most distinctive accommodation opportunity.
Its restaurants include Reflections, Nineteen and the Saigon Saigon Bar, an
indoor-outdoor venue that commands the top floor of the historic old wing of
the hotel. The hotel’s story is told in Caravelle – Saigon:
A History, published in 2009 in celebration of the 50th anniversary.
Note that any reproduction of the Saigon Press 1972 images must carry the
credit: "From the collection of Neal Ulevich."
Left to right: Carl Robinson, Richard Pyle, Horst Faas, Command Module
driver, Peter Arnett, Neal Ulevich. City Hall is visible in the
background.